Trekking Kilimanjaro Pt. 1 - Acclimatizing to mountain sickness
Mixing HAFE and food poisoning, headaches and stomach sickness with the most amazing views in the world.
Trekking Kilimanjaro 2003 - Seven friends and I undertook the most amazing trip to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro in 2003. These pages recount the original diary that I kept during our trek. Photo galleries exist of the climb, the safaris to Tarangire and Ngorongoro and our trip to Stone Town, Zanzibar.
Next: Trekking Kilimanjaro Pt. 2 - From Karanga to the Summit
Previous: At Base Camp with a Tusker in hand
Tuesday Sept. 30th.
Day 1 — Machame Gate (1800m) to Machame Camp (3100m)
We meet our guides — Victor Shirima and Oswald. Quick visit to Zara in Moshi and we’re off. At the gate we sign in and meet some others. There is a UK group going up with us (same itinerary and from Zara). We set off. I like Victor immediately. He’s very likable and I am very glad that Wendy and Laurie (from the CTV special) recommended him to me. He asks a lot of questions about Wendy and Laurie. Unfortunately, other than a few emails, there is very little I can relate. Victor informs me that he hopes to climb in South America later this year with Wendy and Laurie.
Everyone is in high spirits. The landscape is amazing and we are walking up the cloudforest. I am tiring as we make camp. The UK group seems to be a lot of fun and all from the same company — we would later find out that it is indeed one company — a marketing company in Chiswick. The owner wanted to celebrate his 55th birthday at the summit and he had “forced” his company to come along. Very cool.
One of the girls — an Irish lass named Sinead seems to be barely hanging in there this first day. We help adjust her pack after lunch. I am truly amazed and will be continually amazed for the next 7 days when it comes to our porters. They carry our packs on their heads almost running up the mountain side in equipment that is shoddy. Unbelievable!
Arriving at Machame Camp our tents are already setup, popcorn made and tea is ready. This is incredible luxury. We cannot see Kili — the clouds are in. Chris and I will be sharing a tent. Our meal was incredible. I can no longer remember the menu but it was assuredly good. I do remember I ate too much and now wonder if that was not a contributing factor for the rest of the night.
The night is most unpleasant. I am now suffering from High Altitude Flatalus Expulsion (HAFE). I am farting almost constantly all night. I feel like I am floating on a stinky cloud. Chris is suffering from HAFE also, but I am king! Ha!
In the middle of the night I have to get up and use the squat toilet — it’s actually flurrying — cool!
Wednesday October 1
Day 2 — Machame Camp (3100m) to Shira Camp (3800m)
Only 700m up but as with the next few days it’s up higher and then down to sleep. I felt really crappy — stomach is upset. Victor informs me that our party to get us up this mountain numbers 26 (porters/guides and cooks). Amazing.
The climb is steep and as the day wears on I am getting weaker and vomiting. Oswald takes my day pack for part of the hike (about 3rs just before and after lunch). I’m on re-hydration salts. We figure it might be the avocado at Springlands Hotel. Sujji is similarly suffering, but from diarrhea! Sigh. By the end of the day we reach Shira Plateau and we can see Kibo now. It’s closer, glaciers and all, but seems so far away. The vegetation is more pygmied and very different. Aaron tried to squat in the outhouse at Shira and on getting up is hit by his first severe attack of an AMS headache. Both he and I go on diamox. Even now I wonder if that was not a mistake. My resting heart rate is over 100 beats/min. It’s cold tonight and getting colder.
Thursday October 2nd
Day 3 — Shira Camp (3800m) to Barranco Camp/Wall (3900m) by way of Lava Tower (4600m)
This is our first day of really high altitude. I am feeling so much better this morning and was now hoping the stomach sickness is passed. Sujji is now on Cipro (antibiotic) and hopefully getting better. As we climb higher we’re getting into a slow rhythm and I am not suffering any headaches. Yay. After lunch we decide that Lava Tower is a good idea.
Colin is now lagging behind a good deal. He is starting out earlier and taking really slow steps. I am worried that taking such a slow pace might be exposing him to a greater danger of hypothermia. We do make Lava Tower (I was first up) and I have no ill effects, in fact, I felt great.
Gong down we have to wait for Sujji, Aaron and Victor. Sujji has decided to go rock climbing. I am getting cold. Not moving and having only 2 layers on I am shivering quite forcibly. Santhi notices and gives me an extra layer — thank god.
We make Barranco Wall early in he evening. The outhouse here is quite filthy: People seem to keep missing the rather large and obvious hole. Chris and I stop the practice of taking our boots into the tent at night. After supper my stomach sickness returns with a vengeance. I now have diarrhea — really badly. Santhi suggests waiting till the morning before I go on Cipro. Late in the night I have to make a mad mad dash for the outhouse for you know what. Sigh.
The Barranco Breach Wall is amazing and we’d be scrambling up that the next morning. It promises to be the best part of the hike provided I am well.
