Chapter 18 - Around the world in 58 epic days
58 days after setting out around the world, we have some final pitying moments before making it all the way back.
The Last Train
Between Beijing and Shanghai, China, Saturday, 29 July 2006
I can’t believe it. I’ve boarded my train for the last leg of this journey across Europe and Central Asia.
Tomorrow morning I will have crossed coast to coast, climbed the highest point on a continent, and met the most amazing people from so many countries: natives and travellers both.
Understandably, I feel conflicted. I can’t wait to go back home, back to work, and see my friends, and yet I also feel sad. I can start to appreciate the life of a nomad—nothing becomes stale; there’s always something new over the horizon.
Part of all this weighty introspection might come from totally abusing my body last night.
In the end, the Irish girls didn’t come out with us, but Yannis from my Irkutsk-Ulaanbaatar journey did. We went in search of Robin’s birthday party somewhere in the San Li Tun bar district. The short and tall of it was that we became absolutely polluted on one-dollar drinks at the Kai Club, ended up dancing on a table/wall at ‘Poachers,’ and never made it to Robin’s do as we couldn’t find it. I did go on an extended search for the bar in an almost blind drunken stupor—sorry, Yannis, for snapping at you.
At some point around 3:30 am, my primeval senses of “get the fuck out of here” awoke a drunken mess of neurons, and off I climbed into a taxi. The poor taxi driver! I had to have him pull over at least once to have some dry heaves, and then there was the hour of wandering around the Hutong to find the hostel. I must have fallen into the hostel and am completely surprised that I even made it back. Shortly after reaching the relative sanctity of my room, all my meals and drinks caught up with me. I can’t believe anyone in that hostel slept during my retching. I fell into a drunken stupor, only to be broken by polite knocking. It was check-out time, and Scott and Sarah were on the phone wondering if I was alive.
I can honestly say that my stay in Beijing has been memorable. The only thing I wish I had seen was some sunlight in this dreary, fog-entrenched city. Maybe they’ll install giant fans to clear the air for the 2008 Olympics!
I spent the afternoon with Scott and Sarah and went to the Silk Market with Scott to do some souvenir shopping. The vendors there were quite aggressive and grabbed our hands and bodies to hold us in place. “Hello, sir! Silk, sir?!” “Hello, sir! Kite, sir? For you, special price!” I think someone like Mieko or my mother would have had a field day in there. Personally, shopping is almost anti-fun for me, and bargaining even less joyful. Finally, I said goodbye to Scott and see you later to Sarah—she’s coming up to Shanghai for a couple of days—and here I am on the train.
Another point about Beijing and China in general… I really don’t see the communism here. In fact, Beijing reminded me of Hong Kong when I moved there in 1983, whilst it was under colonial rule. In a strange way, China might be the most capitalist place I have ever been to.
More capitalist even than Britain and America.
Right, so forgetting my introspection, who are my travelling companions? They are all Chinese: an older lady, a younger lady, and a young boy. To be honest, I doubt I will be socializing for once. My body craves sleep.
Winding down in Shanghai
Shanghai, China, Tuesday, 01 August 2006
I have only two days left in this amazing journey. Reading this entry and considering the time since my last, you might get an idea that I’ve been lounging around my friends’ Chris and Lisa’s apartment simply awaiting my departure from China.
In reality it has been a relatively relaxing time of sightseeing, eating, drinking with intermittent appearances by Sarah. Shanghai is a big, okay, very big city whose history includes the Opium Wars, foreign concessions, bombings during the second World War and even more violence at the beginning of Communist rule. It now contends with Hong Kong for control of the financial sector in both China and in the region. However, I do not think it has yet grown up to its full potential.
My first impression of Shanghai was one of chaos.
I arrived in Shanghai and managed to find myself in the subway station in an attempt to get to Chris and Lisa’s luggage in tow. When the train doors opened a literal horde of people stormed past me, pushing and bullying their way onto the train. At some point during the crush, I believe I was magically lifted off my feet and simply carried through the doors.
Despite the chaos, I have found Shanghai to be more modern, exciting, cleaner and generally more pleasant than Beijing. Heck, I have found myself even forgiving the driving here! Mind you, all this might have something to do with the blue skies that was so lacking in Beijing. Chris tells me that I have been quite lucky, normally Shanghai is apparently misted over with smog. I must say that after so long in the wilderness of Russia and Mongolia, these big cities do feel like giant human cesspits.
Rather than giving a day-by-day account, let me share some of the highlights so far.
We have visited the museum honouring the first meeting of the Communist Party, walked along the promenade of the “Bund”, ridden the world’s fastest train (the Maglev), climbed the city’s highest point (Jin Mao Tower), rested in the ancient idyllic gardens of Yu Yuan and wandered through “old Shanghai”.
The Chinese Communist Party museum was the only visit that set my teeth on edge. Not because of the history, but rather the overt propaganda apparent even in the physical set up of the exhibits. Naturally we have similar propaganda but maybe it irked me because of the present-day lack of the so-called Communism that this museum so effectively celebrated as the cornerstone of China. Hypocrisy is a teeth-clencher.
Shanghai’s waterfront–the Bund–was the area built by the foreigners who set up shop to trade with China in the 19th century. The facade is European with lovely turn-of-the-century buildings lining the harbour. The Maglev is a German engineering marvel and is the world’s fastest train levitating on magnets. The train can get up to fantastic speeds of up to 430 km/h. A truly impressive display, if only the track had been placed in an area which would make mass commuting on the train feasible. Currently the train connected the secondary suburban area of Pudong with the main airport. It is apparently sometimes faster to take other means of transportation to the airport.
From the world’s fastest, we travelled to what used to be the world’s tallest, at least in 1999. Jin Mao Tower is Shanghai’s highest point at 88 stories. The height has been surpassed by other global buildings a few times since this one was built, but the next “tallest building on the planet” is under construction next door. Jin Mao Tower is a cool looking building and the elevator to the top is impressive in covering the distance in a mere three minutes.
Nothing shows the anachronism that is Shanghai than walking through “Old Shanghai”. Minutes from glass giants you can be in an area strewn with overhanging electric wires tied to fragile ropes. The economic might pales into a vision of life that did not seem to have changed in 50 or 75 years. In this area, streets are crammed with crooked alleyways with people populating every nook and cranny. There is laundry hung across the streets as rickshaws and bikes careen wildly on one errand or another.
Looking at the skyline, I wondered what need there was for so much commercial and retail space. I cannot imagine the populace was wealthy enough yet to have a huge disposable income as we did in the west to use for the indiscriminate materialistic shopping that abounds here. What was contained in these incredibly tall building? Are they empty giants waiting for the might that was proclaimed but not yet claimed? Or was Shanghai truly growing at a pace that was unheard of in the world? I suppose only time will tell. It is interesting that there are many different banking institutions available throughout Shanghai and in China generally. According to Chris though, almost all of them are owned by the government. When you think about it, that is ridiculous.
Aside from observations of an economic and political nature, there are also the gastronomic adventures we have so far embarked upon. My favourite so far has been the “All you can eat and drink” sushi restaurant which costs a paltry $15. I cannot imagine how this place continues to stay in business! Maybe it’s a front for illegal sushi and wasabi smuggling. Generally, I have found food and drink to be more expensive than in Beijing but still cheaper than in Canada.
“It would be a pity if…”
Shanghai, China, Wednesday, 02 August 2006
The billboard at the Suzhou train station loudly proclaimed the following words from a poet during the Song Dynasty: “It would be a pity if one were to visit Suzhou and not see Tiger Hill.”
Chris, Lisa, and I had decided to go out of town on an afternoon excursion to see Suzhou. Unfortunately for Lisa, she had left Chris and me in charge of planning said outing. In between the twin vagaries of computer games and the Internet, I think she should have been happy with at least the foreknowledge of what time the train was to leave. The obvious lack of planning was made apparent when we arrived at the train station and only found the ticket office through blind luck.
We had not brought the guidebook, Chris had not brought his iPod battery, and I had forgotten my MP3 player and my cell phone. Granted, the cell phone is not a necessary accessory, but we had also planned to meet Sarah at the ticket station. In the end, with our late arrival and being unable to locate Sarah, we tumbled by pure chance into the hard seat double-decker coach bound for Suzhou.
Despite the crammed conditions, all seemed to be going well, and the train, after an hour, did finally motor into the Suzhou train station. On disembarking and seeing the billboard I’ve already quoted, we decided that we did not want to be pitied; we would go to Tiger Hill. In a moment of lucidity, though, we decided to book our onward journey first. Unfortunately—due to our lack of planning—the only train back with seats was to leave in a mere hour.
Obviously, Tiger Hill was unattainable.
What a pity.
Given the little time we had in Suzhou, we decided a cold beer was in order. The first restaurant we tried smelled of dead cat and urine, so we found another. The second restaurant smelled nicer, but the staff were all asleep inside when we showed up. When we came in, there was a sudden hustle and bustle of activity to get us seated and beers poured. Meanwhile, in the tank nearby, a fish swam upside down (he seemed still alive) with blood spilling down its body, and a mangy cat rummaged for morsels of food along the floor.
Overall, not a place I would recommend for food.
That, my friends, was my one hour in Suzhou. A piteous time indeed. The evening was a much nicer affair of yet more sushi and an open mic night.
Since Lisa had planned all that, I didn’t need to pity anything.
Time for tea
Shanghai, China, Thursday, 03 August 2006
My grand plan for Thursday was to have a vegetarian brunch with Lisa and then go spend the afternoon wandering around the Shanghai Museum. As with Suzhou and Tiger Hill yesterday, I guess it will always be a pity that I did not get to see this apparently fantastic museum.
I was walking through a park intent on the air conditioning provided by the museum when I was stopped by a Chinese couple who wanted to say “Hello” and practice their English. Their names were Lane and Lucille, who were both from Shenzen just across the border from Hong Kong. This was their first visit to Shanghai and they were fascinated by the big city. They had just come from the museum and advised me against going due to the madness of many tourists there. They were now on their way to a tea ceremony and—being the happy-go-lucky Dups that I am—I decided to enjoy their company and accompany them.
If I had wanted to save money, I probably should have stayed behind and gone on to the museum. The tea ceremony itself was both cheap and priceless in what it taught me about the Chinese and their fascination for tea. Lane’s translations during the ceremony certainly were invaluable.
For instance, the first cup of tea that is poured is never drunk. Instead, it is offered to the gods to invoke luck and prosperity. Each small cup is drunk in three noisy sips. Women and men also had to hold the cups in different ways—one symbolised beauty and femininity while the other symbolised power. Each of the teas was amazing, including some of the best Ginseng tea I had ever had.
The last tea we tried was a hand-rolled tea ball which had to be placed in a very large wine glass. At exactly the right water temperature, the tea ball opened up like a flower and actual flowers sprang from the centre. I really wish I had brought my camera with me. Also of interest to some—like my potter friends Ted and Sarah—was the pottery that changed colour with the heat of the liquid poured inside.
At the end, I was tempted into buying some tea, specifically for Mrs. T and Sue, as well as Corey and Donna. I should probably have asked how much before I agreed to buy. Lane and Lucille made the same mistake—but hey, the tea was truly worth it.
After the ceremony we wandered around chatting for a while and then it was time for me to meet Chris and finally say goodbye to Sarah. Sarah had a fairly good time in Suzhou—at least she had seen more than the train station. Her next stop is Japan on her trip around the world.
Meanwhile, my journey ends with 24 hours of flights that start tomorrow morning.
Around the world in 58 days
Seattle, Washington, United States. Friday, 04 August 2006**
What had begun as a simple idea to achieve a relatively simple dream has finally come to an end.
I have travelled through seven countries from London through to Shanghai. Friday in Shanghai began rather inauspiciously. After I said goodbye to Chris, Lisa and their unborn daughter, the taxi was caught up in an unexpected traffic jam.
As it turned out, China’s crazy driving had claimed some more victims. Three trucks and vans had collided on the highway. Scott, you’ll be saddened to hear that in this case the bodies were still lying on the road as we drove past. A grizzly sight just before setting off for home and a reminder of the gamble we play with our mortal coils.
Nevertheless, I made my flight on time and have made it all the way to Seattle. I am waiting for my final flight home to Edmonton and Canada. Naturally, my passport was flagged at US Immigration this time — a one-way return from China and all those countries does beg some questioning. I suspect the same will happen in Edmonton (note: typing this a few weeks later, no one raised an eyebrow as I went through the Canadian border).
Overall though, the American immigration officers were fantastic, courteous and nice.
This truly has been an epic journey. I have also had a sort of epiphany on this journey back to Canada. After every epic journey, you must return to your home, or at least the place from where you started.
It is in the return that the lessons and the stories of your journey start to make sense. For this and so many other reasons, I am craving to get home.
My flight is boarding, and so ends this journal.